On being declared (non) Indian
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For some years now, Archaelogical Survey of India has been charging higher entry fees to foreigners, to enter monuments under ASI control. Since most of the tourist attractions are managed by the ASI, foreign tourists sometimes pay as much as thirty to forty times more than Indian nationals.
Until this past weekend, we always wondered how the ASI gatekeepers would determine the nationality of visitors and assumed that color would be an obvious marker. But at the Taj, I was suspected to be a non-Indian / outsider and challenged to produce an Indian identity. I wasn’t carrying my passport (who would on a day trip to Agra) and my driver’s license was being renewed in Mysore. So bereft of all Indian identity, I was declared equal to thirty seven and half Indians and made to buy a Rs 750 ticket to enter the Taj.
But the explanation the ticket checker at the gate offered was interesting. He apparently challenges those whom he suspects of being outsiders. He wouldn’t elaborate on how he would make that judgment but simply asserted he knows. A few yards away, at the security gate, the policeman too took one look at my wallet and asked me to show my NRI ticket. My two companions were highly amused and couldn’t stop teasing me about my non-Indian status.
Taj is a postcard.
From every angle.
Delhi in Winter
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I love Delhi in winter months. One could be outside and walk everywhere, sip endless cups of chai and eat enormous quantities of food. Me and my friends know where to eat and what to do, which makes visiting a city truly fun. A light jacket or a sweater are adequate for survival, although some South Indians Delhi-ites might disagree.
I spent much of my time on the road, visiting neighborhoods and markets, bus and train stations. My new project is to build a photo archive of unusual sights in Delhi, which I want to use in a ‘Biography of a City’ course that I teach on Delhi. Unlike in Agra, this time, my companion wasn’t amused at being taken to the Interstate Bus Terminus (ISBT) and the Sabzi Mandi at Azadpur. Well, they aren’t on anybody’s tourist map. Our cab driver desperately tried to put us back into the tourist circuit and take us to Lal Qila. But the call of Sabzi Mandi was too powerful in the end.
Oxford and Oxford
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Oxford Bookstore is a superbly designed bookstore on Barakamba road in Delhi. Different sections and subjects are located in neatly divided superbly lit circular spaces. Bookshelves are cool and it’s fun to just sit around. Oxford University Press showrooms aren’t. At least the one in Bangalore isn’t. People struggle to find books and staff have no clue about catalogues. Some book sellers seems to be intent on killing the fun in buying books.
Agamben in Delhi
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Yesterday, Italian philosopher Giorgia Agamben delivered the B.N.Ganguly Memorial Lecture at the Center for the Study of Developing Societies (CSDS). I missed the talk since I had to return to Bangalore yesterday morning. Hoping to catch a report on it in the blogosphere but none seem to have surfaced so far.